Yes, the one and only El Celler de Can Roca! Three Michelin stars, and currently position number 2 in the San Pellegrino rankings. I had been waiting eleven months to get a reservation here! A reservation in May 2014 finally got me a dinner here in April 2015. You have got to plan ahead for this, but it is definitely worth it. As a bonus, you get to visit Girona which is a beautiful city that I wouldn’t mind spending a couple of months in to catch up on my Spanish. I currently live in New York City, so getting to eat at ‘El Celler de Can Roca’ was both a large monetary and time investment. Nevertheless, I consider the time and money well-spent!
‘El Celler de Can Roca’ is located in Girona, around 1-2 hours drive from Barcelona. The city has a lot of interesting history which translates to the beautiful architecture of the city. You can see the old fortifications that were protecting Girona for hundreds of years, relax among the many tiny cobblestone streets, or marvel at the beauty and age (work started in 14th century) of the Girona Cathedral.
‘El Celler de Can Roca’ is ran by three brothers: Joan Roca i Fontané, Jordi Roca i Fontané, and Josep Roca i Fontané. Joan is the head chef overseeing the whole restaurant, Jordi is the pastry chef responsible for desserts, and Josep is the sommelier. They always have at least two of the three brothers in the restaurant for every service. When I visited, Joan and Jordi were around but Josep was on a business trip outside of Spain. Many people attribute the success of the restaurant to the complimentary skills of the brothers, as well as their upbringing which got them interested in cuisine from a young age. Their parents owned, and still do own, a restaurant in Girona where they spent a lot of their time and learned Catalan cuisine. With time, in 1986 they opened their own restaurant right next to their parents’ one. That was the start of ‘El Celler De Can Roca’. In 2007 the restaurant moved to a new custom-built building with a modern design that was more in-line with the creative dishes served at the restaurant. The new building is only around hundred meters away from the old location and is still used for staff meals.
1 The dinner
If you are going for dinner the earliest reservation you can make is for 8pm. The tradition in Spain is to have late dinners so a 9pm or even a 10pm is the norm. The problem with a restaurant such as ‘El Celler de Can Roca’ is that the dinner will take 4-5 hours so you (as well as the cooks and wait staff) get to leave no earlier than midnight. We arrived at quarter to eight to have a look and wander around the restaurant, and we were, in fact, the first guests of the night.
2 Overall thoughts
Food: 10/10. Price: 10/10
It was a fantastic dinner that met all my expectations! The fact that the two brothers that are always there, this time Joan and Jordi, walk around to every single table and ask you about how the dinner went shows they really care. I got my ‘El Celler de Can Roca’ cookbook signed and got a picture with Joan. When we asked, the staff was also very keen to show us the kitchen.
The menu took us on a very long and filling journey, so do not eat too much before coming here or you will find yourself struggling to finish. Every single dish here is culinary art. It’s not enough to make something tiny that looks like a taco; you have to make it taste like a taco too! The amount of flavour in all the dishes here never disappointed me – just a small bite of every course delivered intense flavors, sometimes something you were not expecting, but always interesting and pointed, never bland and flavourless.
I definitely hope to come back here someday, and I urge you to make your reservations today as you will be waiting eleven months for your table!
3 Links
Here are some fantastic talks by Joan and Jordi at the Harvard Science and Cooking lecture series.